Seven Great Lakes in Asia

Who doesn’t like a great lake? No, not those great lakes, but any lake where you can see an amazing reflection or view that forces you to make your own reflection. Whether it’s a serene place or an amazing lake that has a story, these are great places to stop for a rest and think. Write in your journal. Or just relax – isn’t that what lakes are for?

Mirror Lake, New Zealand

Sunrise at the Mirror Lake in New Zealand, near Fox Village, is no mean feat. You must drive or bike a few miles from town, then trek in the darkness around the lake to get this view. But it is certainly a noteworthy goal, as a lake clear as glass and silent makes way for this surreal mirror image as light fills the sky. It is a must-see when seeing the glaciers in the area, and even during midday a walk around the entire lake is lovely.

If you’re looking for more reasons to visit New Zealand, look no further than our Dreaming of New Zealand photo blog.

Tonle Sap, Cambodia

The Tonle Sap is Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, expanding many times its size during monsoon season. Because of the incredible change in landscape between dry and wet seasons, the people who live near here stay on floating villages – complete with televisions, petrol stations, and other typical amenities. It is a surreal sight to behold, especially since the far shore of the lake cannot be seen, leaving you feeling as if you are afloat at sea. It is possible to visit as a daytrip from Siem Reap.

There is more to this Asian country than sun-baked ruins and temples galore. Retreat to the south and experience Cambodia’s shore, full of beaches and off-beat sights to be explored.

Lake Biwa, Japan

Lakek Biwa is the largest freshwater lake in Japan; because of its location next to the historic capital of Japan, it is well known to Japanese historians, but the lake’s beaches are also popular to those not interested in history or literature. Other popular attractions include Ukimido, the floating temple, the Seta no Karahashi Bridge (especially at sunset!), and biwako Hana Funsui – the world’s largest water fountain.

Lake Baikal, Russia

Lake Baikal, just north of the Mongolian border in Russia, is a geological phenomenon. It is massive, containing 20% of the world’s surface freshwater and the deepest (and strangely, clearest) lakes in the world. Because of this and the hundreds of unique species that live here and nowhere else, Lake Baikal is actually a UNESCO World Heritage site. The resort of Listvyanka is also a UNESCO site and popular stopping point.

Not far from there, check out as well our exploration of Kamchatka, at the far eastern edge of Russia.

Lake Wuhua Hai, China

Wuhua Hai, meaning ‘five flower lake’ in Chinese, is one of several of the amazing lakes in the Jiuzhaigou Valley. The name is appropriate, because just in the span of a few meters the lake changes color, from blue to black to yellow to green and back again. It is surreal, spooky, and amazing. Don’t miss the other lakes here in the valley, such as China’s version of the Mirror Lake featured above.

Lake Issyk-Kul, Kyrgyzstan

Would you believe the above photo was shot in Kyrgyzstan? Lakes are a popular tourist attraction in the mountainous countryside of Kyrgyzstan, and Lake Issyk-Kul is no exception. It’s hidden inside a deep valley, giving you endless views of the snowy peaks of the Tian Shan mountains. It was a popular resort destination during Soviet times, and although those resorts fell into disrepair, they are making a resurgence with foreign tourists.

Check out our recent series of posts, where we covered the four “Stans”, starting from Kazakhstan, Tajiskistan, Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Inle Lake, Myanmar

Inle Lake in central Myanmar is the second largest lake in the country and one of its highest. An entire population of people, called the Intha, have built their lives and villages around this lake. Visit in September or October where you can experience Hpaung Daw U Festival, where Buddha images from the nearby Pagoda are paraded around the lake and there are dozens of boat races. This is followed by the Thadingyut festival of lights celebration.

Myanmar is also home to off-the-beaten-path Putao, a destination that is a veritable paradise on earth.

* Note: Some people seem to get held up with my definition of Asia. Asia = all of the destinations featured on Unearthing Asia, which includes places you might call “Australasia” or “Middle East.” Enjoy.

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The Cambodian Shore

If you’ve been to Cambodia, you’ll likely have been to Siem Reap to visit the Angkor Wat complex. But there is more to this Asian country than sun-baked ruins and temples galore. Retreat to the south and experience Cambodia’s shore, full of beaches and off-beat sights to be explored.

Sihanoukville (Kampong Som)

The New York Times called Sihanoukville “Asia’s next trendsetting beach,” and I think after the long, hard history of Sihanoukville it deserves the title. The French helped build this city out of the jungle to serve as a port town, but during the Pol Pot regime the area fell into disrepair. But in the last ten years, the area had blossomed and taken hold a new lease on life. From trendy internet cafes to boutique hotels, Sihanoukville has transformed from a backpacker stop to more mainstream.

The main highlight is the coast, where you’ll find a few beach options. Ochheuteal and Serendipity Beaches are the most popular (and thus the most crowded). Victory Beach is also popular and crowded, but if you’re willing to head out of town a bit, Otres Beach is a nice choice and has similar sand/shore as Serendipity Beach.

You can’t walk around from point to point in Sihanoukville but as elsewhere in Cambodia, there will always be a tuk-tuk waiting to take you. They’ll extraordinarily cheap here to hire for the short distances required.

Bokor National Park

By the sounds of it, you’d expect forests and lush green scenery if headed to national park. In this, case, though, you do get a Hollywood-backdrop worthy sight, but just slightly different. The main attraction here is an old French hill station, built during the French occupation in the 1920s and meant as a retreat for soldiers. It’s been abandoned and left in a very unusual state – you have to see it to understand.

Other nearby sights include waterfall hikes, the black palace, and the old casino. All ruins and artefacts in their own right, but from a totally different era than Angkor Wat.

Please note: Construction works on the roads leading to Bokor means travel is limited. Check with your travel agent or a local prior to your journey.

Kep

Hard to believe it now, but Kep was the ‘in’ destination on the Cambodian shore in the 60s. Nearly abandoned, it hasn’t recovered as much in recent times as Sihanoukville. It is still a great stop to see some abandoned architecture, like Bokor, but also to experience some essential Kep lifestyle.

Your first stop should be for crabs! You’ll find the freshest crabs in the country here, so you can’t miss out on a meal of it here. If you don’t fancy crab, then any dish in the many seafood restaurants will do. You’ll want to make sure and pair your meal with the famous Kep peppercorns – there’s a pepper plantation in Phnom Voir, just outside the city, that’s worth visiting and all of the restaurants locally use the pepper in sauces and dishes. Absolutely delicious.

For outdoors-y things to do, check out the trail that goes around Kep Mountain. It’s about 5 miles and well signposted. If you’re feeling lazy, though, stick to the beach – Kep Beach is the main strip. From Kep Beach you can also take a boat over to Rabbit Island, a super-quiet destination with wonderful white sandy beaches too.

If You Go

To reach Sihanoukville, a good gateway to the rest of the shore area, you have a couple of options from Phnom Penh:
Bus. It’s a four hour journey but thankfully the road is one of the better ones in Cambodia. Mekong Express and Sorya are two of several operators. Book in advance to ensure a seat. Approx US$4.50.
Taxi. Reduces the trip to three hours but cost can range from US$30-40. There’s also the option to rideshare, which can be a little odd considering in Cambodia this means 6-8 people in one taxi.

Sihanoukville does have an airport, but as far as I know due to a crash in 2007, the only air service was suspended.

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Top Attractions in Koh Chang

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Unearthing Asia now offers travel packages throughout the region of Asia. Check out our promotional offers of Luxury Private Villas in Bali, perfect for Honeymooners or those looking for a little romance. We also have great offers for hotels in Singapore, resorts in Phuket and many more.

Sal’s Travelogue #4 – All Road Leads North

Following a quick stop in Cambodia, our writer Sal heads North towards Don Det to meet up with his two traveler friends, Antoine and Valeria. There, he was greeted by the sight of a very comfortable hammock hanging in the balcony of a room that the Canadians had reserved on his behalf.

Waking up whenever you want without any obligations – fundamental principles for the perfect holiday; and Don Det provided the perfect setting for such. It wasn’t quite the beach paradise I imagined it to be, yet the calm waters surrounding the island and the laid back vibe coming from its inhabitants was enticing enough for me to want to stay for a full week.

[caption id="attachment_1616" align="alignnone" width="580" caption="Sunset over Don Det. Photo credit - Sal Sim."][/caption]

I found Antoine and Valerie at the Sunset Guesthouse and Happy Bar – no prizes for guessing why the places were named as such. They helped me reserve a cabana that faced an endless horizon that entertained the setting sun in full glory. When the day drew to a close, I was awestruck by how the sky would gradually turn from a calm blue to a rosy pink. With gentle clouds misting the horizon, the sight of a red sun drawing into the distance was nothing short of magical. For US$ 3 a night, I wasn’t expecting the best sleeping conditions – yet a bed, pillows and a mosquito net were all that I needed for a night’s rest in the cabana.

Although they had spent six full days in Don Det, the Canadian pair had not seen much of Laos, and dinner was a perfect time for the three of us to discuss where we would travel to next.

Happy that I was finally reunited with my friends, it didn’t matter that I was only spending a day and night in Don Det – because clearly, the real journey would be up North; deeper into the Southern Laos province of Champassek. Breakfast the next morning was hardly a concerning issue. A decent fill of bacon and eggs, and we were off on a boat to the mainland, which would become the starting point of our journey towards the Phou Asa village; famed for its elephant trails and nature reserve.

As you might recall, Antoine and Valerie were traveling on bicycles they brought from Canada – so how was I about to make it through 120 km? I walked. Though I still wonder what convinced me to attempt walking to the village, perhaps it was a good thing that my shoes gave way after 40 km along Highway 13. Every passing vehicle seemed curious as to what I was doing out on the highway alone. With pick up trucks passing every ten minutes or so, hitching a ride became no problem at all.

Soon enough, I was halfway along Highway 13, in the back of a heading North, towards the provincial capital of Pakse. All I had to do was get off at the junction that would lead me East towards Phou Asa. I had my eyes peeled to look out for the Canadians all throughout the bumpy ride, but they must have stopped for rest, since I couldn’t spot their shiny red bicycles.

After two rides and plenty of small talk with locals about the area, seeing elephant dung littered along the dirt roads helped me confirm that I had arrived at Phou Asa; famed for its elephant trails. The Canadians had not arrived, so I took the time to find lodging. The only guesthouse in the village was full, so the remaining option was a home stay with one of the village families. By the time Antoine and Valerie arrived, it was almost night. Thankfully, Mrs Seng and Mr Bai – our home stay hosts – had already prepared our rooms and dinner as well.

With a good night’s rest at the home stay, our second day there found us eager to venture into the conservation areas. To realize that an elephant ride would cost us about US$10 per elephant was a bit of a disappointment – but that was nothing to stop us from venturing through the woods on foot.

The landscape in the reserve proved to be quite a mystery, as we trekked through forested areas, a hill made of volcanic rock and ruins left from an old fort. In all, it took us a good four to five hours before we completed our exploration. With an hour spent on lunch, it was about time we thought of a way to carry on North, towards Pakse.

While Valerie and I opted for a ride on the back of a truck, intrepid Antoine set off on his bicycle for a 60 kilometre ride to Pakse. Needless to say, Valerie and I arrived before he did – but it was already six in the evening, and guest houses were either full or too pricey. With rain clouds gathering above us, our frantic search for a room was the stuff of reality TV.

Somehow, I’ve always felt that these things have ways of working themselves out. That evening, I was right. Whether it was a matter of time or just our luck – we chanced upon the Nalin Tachaleun Guest House, with a vacant room for the three of us at 100,000kip (approximately US$ 10). As the rain began to pour, it was just Valerie and I, looking out from the balcony. While street lights flickered, with people clearing the streets – there in the distance we saw, a familiar red bicycle racing down the road with a foreigner peddling calmly. Antoine had arrived.

Sal’s Travelogue – #1: Solo – #2: Saigon Green – #3: Detours

Sal’s Travelogue #3 – Detours

After traversing the Mekong Delta with new found friends, our writer Sal had to say goodbye to the Norwegians, and head north to meet up with two other travelers he befriended in his past journey. Follow him here on his detours towards the North!

“Sorry we didn’t send you a message sooner – the nearest internet café has been down for the past couple of days. We’ve been here three days now – you really have to see this place: it’s amazing! Come quickly to paradise, because Antoine is bored and wants to start cycling up North!”

It may have been my first solo journey, but part of it included heading up north to meet Valerie and Antoine, a pair of Canadians that I befriended on my last visit to Cambodia. The challenge wasn’t catching up with travelers on bicycles – but shortening my second visit to the wonderful kingdom of Cambodia, so I could arrive on time in Southern Laos.

Goodbyes have always been hard on me, but goodbyes had to be said nonetheless, as I parted ways with the Norwegians. Off they were, up the Vietnam coast – while I ventured west into Cambodia. Having already been to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, I was more interested in revisiting Cambodian moto riders than revisiting landmarks such as Angkor Wat and The Killing Fields (Choeung Ek).

[caption id="attachment_1511" align="alignnone" width="580" caption="A torture chamber. Photo credit - Mozzer502."][/caption]

Fortunately, all I had to do was show up at the very same guesthouses I stayed at previously, to share good laughs once more with Jaa from Phmom Penh, and Ratha and Tirra from Siem Reap. Since I was only in Phnom Penh for a day, I set out to see Choeung Ek again – this time, with a digital SLR that I brought as a lesson learnt from previously losing film to the airport’s x-ray machines.

The visit felt like a reiteration of my experience at Saigon’s War Remnants Museum. The memorial tower itself, with its central column of genocide skulls, presents a surreal example of how mankind’s worst demons are bred from within the human race itself.

On my way back on Jaa’s moto, I felt pretty good about bringing the DSLR – especially because of how photogenic the Cambodian countryside is, with children running after kites and the evening sunlight setting the vast fields ablaze with colour and contrast.

A day in Phnom Penh, and I was off on a five-hour bus to Siem Reap. I wasn’t there just to visit Ratha and Tirra, but also to find out if they knew anything about an overland route I could take to Laos from Siem Reap. It was already the 16th, and I was trying to make it to Si Phan Don (The 4,000 islands, Laos) by the 18th to meet Valerie and Antoine. Arriving at Siem Reap in the evening reminded me of how romantic the streets of Psar Chaa can be – especially for tourists seeking a welcoming platform from which to take in the country’s rich culture and scenery.

However, I wasn’t really that interested in all that was rustic and rich. After making contact with Ratha and Tirra from the Popular Guesthouse near Psar Chaa, we made a beeline for their favourite watering hole – which was an eight minute ride away from Psar Chaa. If Saigon Green was the beer to mark my earlier experiences in South Vietnam, then Angkor beer was the recreational icon for my short stay in Cambodia.

The beer and company was good – but news that I had to take a bus around the mountains to Laos, wasn’t. Apparently, the journey would probably take three days; with stopovers at Kompong Cham and Kratie.

I guess being able to hold your liquor around Cambodians is a good thing – especially since getting chummy with the big group of locals at the bar resulted in the entire bar entering a huge discussion about the fastest way for me to get to Si Phan Don. Being in touch with the locals obviously has its advantages – because I made it in the end, to the island of Don Det on the morning of the 18th – only having to spend the previous night nestled in a guesthouse in rustic Kratie.

If motorcycles represented Saigon, and Angkor Wat was the icon of Siem Reap – then Don Det would easily find co-relation to the hammock. Walking through the island’s humble pathways, it seemed like all the other travelers had found themselves new definitions of comfort through combinations of hammock, a good book and novelty ‘happy’ shakes that were an understandable favourite among the younger travelers.

‘Perhaps rushing through Cambodia was worth it’; I thought, as my eyes laid rest upon a picture perfect view of the lake, and finally, upon the sight of a very comfortable hammock hanging in the balcony of a room that the Canadians had reserved on my behalf. Don Det was when my journey truly began.

3 Scenic Temples of Siem Reap

The temples surrounding the once tiny town of Siem Reap are no longer off the beaten track. Nowadays, everybody has an acquaintance who has trekked to see the enormous towers of Angkor Wat, which has somewhat become Cambodia’s de facto flagship temple – it graces the center of the Cambodian flag and it is also on the label of the “national beer”, Angkor Beer.

But there are hundreds of temples in the Siem Reap, in various states of repair or disrepair. Unless you’re visiting for several weeks, there is no possible way to see all of them. However, here are three of my top favorites that I suggest you make time for. I’ll skip Angkor Wat for two reasons: 1) it wasn’t one of my favorites and 2) it is such a historically-significant and massive temple complex you can’t miss it anyway.

[caption id="attachment_1552" align="alignnone" width="580" caption="Bayon, Temple of Faces. Photo credit - Andy Hayes."][/caption]

Bayon

Bayon is known as the ‘Temple of Faces,’ and once you’ve been there you’ll easily know why – as you climb the steep stone steps and make you way into the inner sanctum of the temple, looking up you are struck by the hundreds of large stone faces looking down upon you. Although they are all smiling, I felt a bit of an ominous electric buzz in the air, perhaps waiting for the builders of these stone statues to come walking in from the forest. Although much of this temple is in ruin, it is still easy to imagine what an awesome sight it would have been when initially constructed – truly an earthly home fit for the gods.

[caption id="attachment_1556" align="alignnone" width="580" caption="Ta Phrom. Photo credit - Andy Hayes."][/caption]

Ta Prohm

If you’ve seen the Tomb Raider, a handful of the temple scenes were filmed here at Ta Prohm, and it didn’t take any special effects to give the film its eerie, surreal qualities. The temple is in fairly poor shape and over the centuries trees have taken root in the temple walls. Conservationists have left the trees in place because they are in so deep they actually strengthen the temple and to remove them would destroy those remaining pieces.

Ta Prohm has a magical effect similar to Bayon in that it feels as though whomever built it or lived there might be just out for a walk and to explore the hidden spaces is a violation of trust. Find a quiet corner, relax and just soak up Ta Prohm’s mystical qualities.

[caption id="attachment_1559" align="alignnone" width="580" caption="Banteay Srei. Photo credit - Andy Hayes."][/caption]

Banteay Srei

For the first ten minutes you spend at Banteay Srei, you’ll continue to stare in awe at the elaborate carvings covering every single inch of stone, wondering if they’re actually made of wood. Even with today’s technology it is almost unbelievable that such precise and intricate patterns and sculpture can be made from stone. This temple, unlike many of the others, is made red sandstone that is easier to carve and gives the complex a wonderfully golden-reddish hue.

Many of the entrances and towers of the temple are well preserved and still intact (watch your head – the doorways are quite short!) but some of the statues alongside the stairways are actually replicas, the originals stolen or in museums. If there were an art contest, Banteay Srei would win hands down for originality and attention to detail.

If You Go

You’ll need a ticket to get into any of the temples themselves. You can find more information about the ticketing process over on the APSARA Authority website, which manages temples. Bayon and Ta Prohm are in the nearby vicinity of Angkor Wat, whereas Banteay Srei is about half an hour’s ride along bumpy roads out of Siem Reap.

If you book a personal guide (which I recommend), you will likely travel via air conditioned private car. Other options include hiring a tuk-tuk driver for the day (have your hotel book this for you to get a reputable driver) or cycling the entire route (not recommended in extremely hot weather).

The Best of Khmer Cuisines

One of the highlights of any trip to Cambodia is the food, which often surprises many. The country’s range of dishes can loosely be called ‘Khmer Cuisine’ – and although it is similar to food found in neighboring Laos, Thailand, or Vietnam, it is less spicy and has its own special touches.

The plethora of curries, spring rolls, and rice accompaniments are easily accessible to foreign palates; indeed, most Cambodians are very helpful to suggest dishes and it is always a safe bet to go with the “house recommendation.” Here are a few of the most popular and tasty dishes to get you started, but don’t be afraid to explore the menu and try something new.

Amok Fish

Many Cambodians call this the national dish, and the first time I had it I was so enthused by the wonderful flavors that I even forgot for a minute it was a fish. It is cooked in a thick and creamy coconut sauce, flavored with kroeung (a combination of spices, including lemongrass, saffron, and garlic). The delicious combination is wrapped up in a cute banana leaf bowl and served with plain white rice. Once you taste amok fish, you’ll quickly realize why the locals eat this so often.

Khmer Curry

As I’m a huge Indian curry fan, it is no surprise that I love Khmer curry. It is not spicy at all, and in fact can be just a touch sweet. It is bursting with flavor – the base sauce includes turmeric, garlic, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves. But that’s not all; the chef will also throw in sweet potatoes, regular potatoes, onion, carrots, and some coconut milk. The result is stupendous, and suits well with tofu, chicken, beef or just more vegetables. It comes with white rice, naturally.

Palm Sugar

At any of the market stalls or alongside many of the roadways, you’ll see stands full of these little palm leave packets. At first, I thought they might just be spices or some unmentionable, unpalatable snack. But as our guide kindly explained, these are palm sugar – a tasty sweet made by many of the housewives by boiling down the juices from the palm, resulting in a crunchy sugary snack which has a wonderfully rich flavor. Best of all, they are preservative free (so you have to eat them quickly!) and the sugar is natural, not refined, so you will not have that sugar rush and subsequent low after eating them. They make a great souvenir for friends back home.

Cambodian Barbeque

Just the words ‘Cambodian Barbeque’ conjure up a juxtaposition of expansive Australian backyards against the dusty lanes of Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. But a Cambodian BBQ is neither of these things; it’s a unique meal preparation and one you should try if you can find a BBQ restaurant nearby.

The meal is centered around a heavy pot filled with burning coals; on top is a metal dome which is rubbed down with butter and fat. You first must choose from a list of many meats and fishes, including such eccentricities as kangaroo or crocodile. Your choices will then be placed on the grill to cook; around the dome is a reservoir filled with broth in which fresh vegetables and noodles are seeped. The meats and fish are covered in egg, spices, and other sauces that fry up wonderfully.

As with most service in Cambodia, you’ll be helped along the way if you need it, but don’t be afraid to throw something onto the grill yourself or to put more vegetables in the broth. Just be careful – the coals are quite hot so the slim cuts cook in no time. The whole outfit is served with plain rice and is a fun experience in itself.

Photo credits – Stuck in Customs – Fotoosvanrobin