The Stans Part I - Kazakhstan
March 20, 2010 by Nik
Filed under Attractions, Crossroad of Asia, Culture
You’ve heard of the ‘stans, even if you don’t realize it. They are quickly becoming the new backpacker circuit in Central Asia, offering great off-road touring, expansive nature, and that slight twinge of discomfort in not knowing how safe really things are, which the more adventurous travelers just can’t get enough of. So here’s your four-part quick guide on the ‘stans, starting with Kazakhstan.
A Russian Legacy
Kazakhstan is the largest of the ‘stans and the world’s nine largest country, bordering on Russia which is just to the north. This part of Asia was under the Soviet Union’s control until 1991, and the communist legacy has left an indelible impression on the country. At first glance, the empty rusting ships that sit on the Aral Sea look like the poor victims of global warming, or perhaps the oddly placed film set. However, it was the Russians who diverted rivers away from this massive lake to irrigate cotton fields. It is a must-see.
Then there is the ever-present radioactive threat from former Soviet nuclear dumps; many villages are death traps where radiation levels are thousands of times higher than safe. Similar to the Aral Sea, across the country entire villages laid empty and abandoned, left to rot.
Almaty Joy
Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan and its former capital. It is a popular stop with tourists and expats because of the great urban vibe yet snow-capped mountains within eyesight on a clear day. Some of the best views are from Koktobe , which can be reached by cable car.
You cannot tour the presidential palace in Almaty, but the architecture is worth a visit. Across the street is the National Museum, which has explores Kazahk history. But when you’re finished, it is market time. Barakholka in the northwest section of town is famous for bargain discounts on knock-off products; it is busiest on weekends, especially Sunday, the perfect opportunity for people-watching. Zelyony Bazaar is another loud, crazy place where you can find great spices to take back as souvenirs.
For getting out of town, be sure to check out the Turgen Gorge, famous for its waterfalls. There are several walking trails through the forests as well as hot springs. There is so much near Almaty, hence why it makes such a great tourist base.
Tian Shan Mountains
It seems like most tourists I know who visit Kazakhstan head for the Tian Shan mountains. But why not – its exactly what many countries don’t have: endless miles of desolate mother nature, waiting to be explored and show off its hidden gems. Big Almaty Lake is must-see for sure – the blue of the lake is unreal. But what about the Tian Shan Astronomical Observatory? Better see it while you can – with a lack of funding, its future remains unclear. Or the Alma Arasan ski resort? Or the Kosmostantsia meteorological research center? As if another world, the Tian Shan feels like its stuck in another time. Just read this Tian Shan experience for what a preview of what these mountains are like.
If You Go
Nearly all visitors require a visa to enter Kazakhstan. However, many readers will be eligible for a simple application procedure which will grant you a tourist visa you can obtain at any Kazakhstan diplomatic mission. For details and the application, visit the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Kazakhstan website.
Most will find the people of this country warm and friendly as hospitality is part of the Kazakh culture; the biggest problem is a corrupt police force. Be sure to always have your paperwork on hand in case you are asked for it.
Given the size of the country, you’ll likely make heavy use of local transport. Trains and buses are the most common and most economical; you can also use air transport for a few key routes (planes are new and safe), and within cities using local taxis are cheap and fairly easy.
About the Author. Andy Hayes. Andy Hayes is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. When not crossing the world to have his next Asian travel adventures, he is hitting the walking trails near home. To get in touch or see Andy’s other travelogues, visit his website, Sharing Travel Experiences.
Dreaming of New Zealand
March 19, 2010 by Nik
Filed under Attractions, Enchanting Oceania, Nature
As I’ve often mentioned before, New Zealand is hands down my favorite travel destination so far. It’s got great scenery, a laid-back atmosphere and a superb infrastructure that makes it a breeze to just explore and get lost in the country’s many beautiful landscapes. For Delicious Baby’s Photo Friday, here’s a photo recap (Part 1) of my New Zealand travels!

From one of the stops on our Port Hills Drive

The view from Sign of the Kiwi

Another view from Sign of the Kiwi

Castle Rock Scenic Reserve

At the sea-side town of Sumner

The sprawling Mount Cook Village

Sea-side fun at the beach of Sumner

Kite-surfing

Ducks by the Avon River

Lake Tekapo, about an hour's drive away from Moun Cook

Another shot of Lake Tekapo

At the Gentanner Camping Ground

A hiking trail at the base of Mount Cook

Glacier Lake, with Mount Cook in the backdrop

Upclose and personal with the glaciers
A Tale of Four Cities
For our Issue 02 of the magazine, we share with you travel tales from four cities all over Asia – Shanghai, Singapore, Sydney and Seoul - and much more!
In this issue
+ Shanghai Hip
+ Singapore’s Dempsey
+ The Heart of Seoul
+ Sydney’s Culture Capital
+ Tasty Taiwan
+ The Art of Humanity
+ Asia’s Little Dragon
+ Wellness for the Soul
+ Chic Melbourne
+ Jakarta Capital Treats
+ Bali, Romance in Paradise
7 Top Attractions in Ho Chi Minh City
March 5, 2010 by Nik
Filed under Attractions, Culture, Exotic South East, Feature Highlights
The economic centre of Southeast Asia’s rising economic star, Ho Chi Minh City is one of the planet’s most exciting cities, where influences from France collide with the Orient, and where the Vietnam War is remembered like it was yesterday. And with skyscrapers, landmarks and fashion cenres galore, never has there been a better time to head to a place that, despite the global recession, is still very much alive and kicking.
Authentic Vietnamese
Vietnamese cuisine is taking off around the world, but there is still no better place to find it than in the country’s gourmet capital. Join the likes of Bill Clinton at Pho2000 near Ben Thanh Market, which proudly proclaimed “Pho for the President” along with various photos of the then President of the United States enjoying a bowl of pho at the iconic restaurant. The menu here is long and varied, and is packed with locals and tourists alike. Those looking for something a little more fusion should head to Xu Bar, which is not only one of the cornerstones of night life in the city, but is also the place where the celebrated Chef Nyuyen is attempting to revamp traditional Vietnamese cuisine.
Coffee & Cafe
The Ho Chi Minh City is brighten up by various lights at night, giving it a laid-back atmosphere that give rise to the prevalence of cafes dotted along the streets. Vietnam is one of the world’s most renowned producers of coffee, and caffeine lovers will find themselves in aromatic heaven trying out the varied local brews here. For a sure-fire way to refresh and relax, pick a random cafe at a bustling street corner and order a local brew. Sit back and enjoy as you laze yourself and watch the various pedestrians passing by.
Hitting the Town
Other than a pick of bustling cafes to relax and sip your time away, the Ho Chi Minh City also plays host to numerous trendy bars that is a favorite of both locals and expats. The Q Bar, Saigon Saigon Bar, Xu Bar, Lush and Velvet are but a few in the long list of popular hangout spots for the party crowd, each with their own distinct trendiness and appeal.
Iconic Landmarks
It’s pretty easy to navigate the sprawling metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City on foot, particularly since most of the places of interest is located in District One. Start with the Notre Dame Cathedral, an outstanding red-brick building adorned with staiend glass, then move on to Saigon Central Post office, a French colonial building with a classic interior. This also operates all postal services from the city and is the best place to buy a phone card. The Opera House typifies the city, showing both western operas and traditional Vietnamese performances. The Reunification Palace was the home of the former Viet Cong leader who the city is named after and is a grand colonial building overlooking the city centre.
Bikers Gang
After exploring the iconic landmarks of District One by foot, rent a motorbike and cruise along the streets for a way of transportation that has become ingrained into the fabric of society. Throngs of Vietnamese commuters travel by motorbike, and although it may not be one of the safest way to travel, it is certainly one of the most authentic.
War Remnants
One of Vietnam’s biggest tourist attractions, the Chu Chi Tunnels are a network of underground caverns built during the Vietnam War. About 121 kms long in total, visitors can take a tour of the tunnels and see for themselves the conditions in which the Vietcong waged a bloody war against the machineries of US. The War Remnant Museum, also known as the Museum of American Atrocities, is another tourist attraction worth visiting. It’s extremely biased and one sided, but still an important insight nevertheless into the Vietcong’s reaction to the war.
Shopping Seasons
Aside from eating most visitors to Vietnam’s number one city find themselves spending most of their time here shopping. Ben Thanh Market is a major market in Ho Chi Minh City and is the place to find souvenirs. There is a wide selection of t-shirts sporting the likes of “Good Morning Vietnam” and “Miss Saigon” to lacquerware and embroidery, and for those that love a good brew, some of the best coffee beans in the region. Ladies will want to try out the Ao Dai, the Vietnamese national dress, which is one of the most exquisite in the region, combining trousers and a dress.
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About the Author. Trangh Nguyen. Come to Vietnam, enjoy a cup of bia hoi in the street restaurant, ride moto, cruise in the labirynth of Mekong Delta and Halong Bay. Come with us and share the delight of one of the most beautiful country in Asia. We welcome you with our heart, hospitality and excellent cuisine.
Capital Adventures in Canberra
December 4, 2009 by Nik
Filed under Attractions, Culture, Enchanting Oceania
Despite the southeast coast of Australia being the most populous and the most popular with tourists, many visitors speed by Australia’s capital city of Canberra on their travels. Others don’t even realise that Australia built Canberra in 1913 for the purpose of being a new capital to stop the rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne. But no true Australian itinerary is complete without a peek into the orderly streets of Canberra.
On first glance, some may find the city a little bland. Despite its straight-laced planned layout and the fact that much of it (including Lake Burley Griffin) is artificial, once you get a feel for the place you’ll quickly find the Canberra charm is undeniable.
Markets
While yes you can head for the traditional high street shopping in the commercial district, why would you when Canberra has so many fantastic Markets? There’s the Old Bus Depot Market which is held every Sunday and a great place to pick up arts and craft souvenirs for your friends and family back home. Come hungry, though, as there are plenty of food vendors offering up lunch and farms selling homemade products also offer up samples. Yum!
If antiques is your thing, you can’t miss the Canberra Antiques Centre east of the city centre in Fyshwick; it’s piled high with fun and funky clothing, art, and all sorts. I kind of feel like it’s a museum in its own right. If you go on Sunday you can also visit the Fyshwick Market. Alas if you can’t make it out to Fyshwick, then check out the Gorman House market on Saturday, which is a bit closer to town and has loads of great antiques.
Alas, if you can’t find what you need at the markets, there’s always the Canberra Centre or City Walk.
Museums
For a relatively small city, Canberra is just packed full of museums. I suggest you start at the National Capital Museum, which not only offers a great view over the city centre, it also gives a history of how Canberra came to be and more details on its planned layout.
Another must-see is the Australia War Memorial, which isn’t just a war memorial but in fact a world-class museum. It is focused on Australia’s military history, which may sound like a snooze, but the wide range of collections offer a bit of something for everyone.
Lastly, you can’t miss out on exploring both the Old Parliament House and Parliament House of Australia — even though Canberra is quite young, the parliament moved to the new building in 1988. When the new Parliament was built it was the most expensive building in the Southern Hemisphere, but once you see it you won’t question the cost. It is simply stunning, especially at night.
Scenic Views
This is Australia, after all, so there is no shortage of great views and outdoor scenery. After checking out the Parliamentary views, you should head out of town and see the view from the Black Mountain Tower, a communication tower just a few miles from town. It’s got sweeping views of the city and there’s even a café/restaurant at the top.
Back in town, head straight for the National Botanic Gardens, which has the largest collection of native Australian flora in the country. Check your travel dates to see if you can catch one of their famous jazz evenings – truly a spectacular event, they are free; don’t forget to pack a picnic!
If You Go
Being the capital, Canberra is relatively easy to reach via air, bus, or train. Check out the four hour direct train service from Sydney; it’s better than driving and you’ll pass though the Southern Highlands of New South Wales, a gorgeous spot of land, especially when the train crosses through the Molonglo Gorge.
About the Author. Andy Hayes. Andy Hayes is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Edinburgh, Scotland. When not crossing the world to have his next Asian travel adventures, he is hitting the walking trails near home. To get in touch or see Andy’s other travelogues, visit his website, Sharing Travel Experiences.
The Remote Himalayan Valley of Zanskar
September 16, 2009 by Nik
Filed under Mythical Himalayas, Nature
High altitude wilderness has its own uniquely self-eluding charm, one that held me in awe. This was the reason why I chose to start the year 2009 with a visit to Zanskar Valley. The Himalayan valley is one of the remotest in India, and can be reached by road only during the summer. I’ve always thought of planning a road trip to the barren yet beautiful landscape of Leh, but not this time – I flew down instead from New Delhi to Leh to save time.
Most people prefer to fly to Leh to reach Zanskar because of the altitude and the scenic vistas and not to mention the fact that you will get to fly over the Himalayan Ranges. If not for the comfort and ease of transportation, I was more than willing to fork out the extra money for the stunning views from above the sky.
As I walked out of the plane at an altitude of 11,500 feet above sea level, the first thing that caught my eye was the seemingly endless horizon filled with blinding whiteness. It started to drizzle a bit as I made my way towards the visitor centre, where I was greeted by a Tibetan with deep wrinkles and a large smile. He introduced himself as Chawang, and he was to be my guide for the trip to Zanskar Valley.
If you don’t have a guide for your trip then it might be a problem because to reach Zanskar, you need to cross over from Ladakh to Kashmir and back to Ladakh. There are several military checkpoints en-route which can be quite a headache. Another thing to note is that foreigners need a proper permit while traveling to some of the areas in Leh and Jammu and Kashmir – your guide can easily take care of that.
Leh is a small town surrounded by the Ladakh Range on one side and the Zanskar Range on the other. Except for the Leh Palace, there are no attractions in the city. You can take a walk through the city, relax, and acclimatize. If you plan to stay in Leh for longer duration then you can pay a visit to some of the further attractions from Leh, such as the Thikse Monastery, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri Lake, and Khardung La Pass.
Early in the morning the next day, we made our way towards Zanskar Valley. To get to the valley the plan was to drive 234 kilometers through deep gorges, snow capped peaks and landslide zones towards Kargil, a halfway stop where we will spend the night and rest up. The next morning, we’ll drive the next 220km through from Kargil via Rangdum and Penzi La Pass towards Zangla.
In the morning light, the picture perfect scenery was simply unforgettable. A beautiful river snaked along snow capped mountains, with the imposing structure of Rangdum monastery bringing color into the barren landscape at the valley floors. The Rangdum Gompa, located some 7km from the Rangdum Valley, is perched on a hill offering a spectacular views of the nearby mountains and glaciers. This stunning monastery was established in the early 18th century and is home to around 40 monks.
Next morning, we started off early with a 27km ascent to Pensi La Pass and were greeted by two huge glaciers that feed the Suru River and two charismatic high altitude lakes. A perfect picnic spot! After a small photo session, we moved ahead and closer to the famous Drang Drung glacier, which is the largest in Ladakh region. It is a long winding river of snow and ice with the Z3 peak in the background. The Glacier is the source of the Stod River, which joins the Tsarap River in Padum to form the mighty Zanskar River. From this point, we descended more into the Zanskar valley to Sani.
We crossed Padun by mid-day, and after a brief lunch hurried on to Zangla before sunset. After approximately 3-hour drive from Padum, we finally reached the Zanskar Valley, where I plan to stay for a good few days to enjoy the relaxing wilderness. The Zanskar Valley trip is not an easy one because of the terrain, altitude, and weather. It is a good 10-day trip from Leh and back. If you have plenty of time and are looking for more adventures then some of the places you can visit include the Nubra Valley, Suru Valley, The Hemis National Park, Lamayuru Monastery, and the Markha Valley in the Ladakh Region.
About the Author. Parthajit. Parthajit is a nature & landscape photographer and trekker with travel experience in the Indian Himalayas (Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh), Western Ghats (India), Thailand, New Zealand, and Japan.
Cruising Through Malaysia
September 13, 2009 by Nik
Filed under Exotic South East, Nature
Many towns in Malaysia were founded at the mouths of rivers as they were an important means of transport. Today, these rivers provide an alternative means of taking in the sights of a town as well as the plant and animal life along their banks. Tourists should try one of the the several leisurely river safaris available in East Malaysia.
Malacca River Cruise
Top of the picks is a river cruise that has been made famous by the Hollywood movie called “Entrapment” shot in 1998. It is none other than the Malacca river cruise. From the jetty at Dutch Square, the boat proceeds upriver and passes under Tan Boon Seng Bridge. This bridge has historical significance as its capture by the Portuguese in 1511 divided Sultan Mahmud’s Shah’s forces, weakening them. As a result, the Portuguese were able to capture the town.
Soon, old shophouses come into view on the left and right banks. The next bridge that the boat passes under is the Chan Boon Cheng Bridge. It was originally built in 1908 and replaced by its present structure in 1963. During World War II, (1942-45), the Kempetai (Japanese Military Army) displayed the beheaded heads of resistance forces at the foot of the bridge to serve as a warning to the community. After another five minutes of wind, a footbridge by the eerie name of Ghost Bridge passes overhead. The origins of the name is a mystery today. Then, the boat passes under the Old Market Bridge that links Kampong Hulu and the former Central Market. Fishing boats still berth here to unload their catches which are transported to the new Central Market.
Kuala Trengganu
Kuala Trengganu, off the coast of Malaysia offers a river cruise with several interesting stops. From the Shah Bandar jetty near the Central Market (locally referred as Pasar Payang), the tour boat departs upriver along the Trengganu River to Pulau Duyung (Mermaid Island), the first stop. A boat-building industry thrives on this island, which is also linked to the mainland by a bridge. Here, both luxury yachts and fishing boats are constructed by craftsmen without any blueprint, a skill inherited from their forefathers.
The riverine tour continues to Jeram River, with a stop at Kampung Jeram that holds a surprising sight. Amidst the traditional wooden Malay houses stands a Chinese temple with its red roof. According to legend, Admiral Cheng Ho of the Ming Dynasty sailed through the locality in 1414, and made a stop for supplies. His ship ran aground in the shallow waters of the river, and he came on land, spending several days with the villagers. In 1943, the Terengganu Chinese Cultural Association built a temple to honour the admiral. Called the Sam Poh Kong Temple, it comes alive during Chinese New Year and other festive days when devotees come to pray.
The next stop is the Pura Tanjung Sabtu Cultural Center, which has ten traditional houses. The centre belongs to the family of Tengku Ismail Tengku Su, a Terengganu prince, whose aim is to preserve the architectural heritage of his state. Finally the ship takes passengers back to the estuary of the Terengganu River to the State Museum Complex in Bukit Losong. The largest in the country, it consists of a Main Museum, Maritime Museum, Fisheries Museum, four traditional houses and herbs and botanic gardens.
Kampong Kuantan
For nature lovers, a highly recommend river cruise is down the Sungai Selangor (Selangor River) at Kampong Kuantan to see the rhythmic flashing of lights produced by thousands of fireflies resting on mangrove trees. The phenomenon resembles the twinkling lights of Christmas trees and is truly spectacular. Locals call these fireflies kelip-kelip but they are actually beetles of the Lampyride family. On average each firefly measures six millimetres long. The males produce flashing lights in their thorax thrice every second. At the jetty at Kampung Kuantan, boat operators take their passengers (minimum two persons) upriver for about 40 minutes and turn back, allowing them the opportunity to observe this mating ritual of the insects.
Kuching
Nestled on the banks of the Kuching River, the capital of Sarawak, Kuching, has an interesting boat ride that begins from the waterfront in Main Bazaar. The narrow bustling streets near the river are chock-a-block with colourful temples, raucous markets, historic building and Chinese shophouses selling handicrafts of all manner. Admire the Astana, built by Charles Brooke in 1869 on the opposite bank. Today, it is the official home of the Governor of Sarawak. Further ahead, there is Fort Margherita that dates back to 1879. The fort resembles and English castle, and now serves as the Police Museum. It was named after the wife of Charles Brooke. As the boat slides eastward, the cheery colours of the wooden houses of Kampong Boyan, Kampong, Gersik and Kampong Sourabaya Ulu greet you. Finally, you are deposited on the east side of the city centre. What a joyful ride for a song.
About the Author. Ewe Paik Leong. Based in Kuala Lumpur, Ewe Paik Leong has almost 20 years’ experience as a writer/editor. He has held editorial positions in publications ranging from lifestyle, medical, building, travel and business to motoring. He won second prize in the Her World Short Story Competition 1980, and was listed in the Malaysia Book of Records (1st and 2nd editions) as “the writer with the most short stories published on a freelance basis.”





























